Figures were added using the Tamiya British Army set, with some modifications using a Preiser arm from the scrap box to re-pose a smoker for driver's hatch. Some folks think the Tamiya figures are undernourished, but as far as I can tell they match the size of the crewmen in the 1943 photograph of Adjunct exactly. It may be a minority report, but looking at period photos the closer to five foot height of the Tamiya figures seems more accurate than the six footers many folks seem to prefer. Although it may be hard to imagine in today’s super-sized world, based on my research folks were just smaller in the 40’s. Following advice from Lu Rodriguez, the figures were painted with acrylics. Although Lu recommends sticking with Vallejo exclusively, the base coat on the uniforms was painted with Tamiya acrylics rendered brushable with a drop of Liquitex Slo-Dri, and the flesh was done using Humbrol enamels. After detail painting with Vallejo colors, a flat coat of Future with about 20% Tamiya flat base was airbrushed over each figure. Still working on the 'light from above' effect, but I my figures are improving.
 
After a base coat of Testors olive was airbrushed and topped with highlight coats using Tamiya acrylics, the aforementioned British pattern steel chevron track were added. At that point it came time to figure out exactly how to paint Adjunct’s unique camouflage pattern, not to mention coming up with its unusual markings. After quite a bit of procrastination, it became apparent to me that trying to mask this pattern would not be practical, but the ongoing discussions of painting techniques on the Track 48 Forum suggested that it might be possible to recreate this complex pattern with brush painting. With no little trepidation I plunged in and, placing my reference photo on a typing stand, applied the brown bands using Tamiya brown acrylic again cut with Liquitex Slo-Dri for easier brushing, followed with the thin cream bands with a fine brush and the ever versatile Vallejo. Fortunately acrylics dry very thin if pooled on carefully with a brush, so no brush strokes were apparent after the paint cured. Although the finished hand-painted look was a little funkier than I had hoped for it was nothing that a good coat of weathering would not tone down, and fortunately, Adjunct was heavily weathered.
But before any weathering could be applied the markings had to be cobbled up. Again time was on my side, and I was able to snatch the Canadian flashes from the recently released Crusader Mk. III kit, as well as serials that could be cut up and reassembled to produce Adjunct’s hull number. Although the unique hand applied font of Adjunct’s name was just not available in a decal set, I was able to locate some Microscale railroad lettering in my decal collection that matched the font used in the serials, and settled for that. All of these decals settled down nicely after several applications of Walther’s Solvaset. The air recognition roundel was taken from a set of ICM Spitfire decals, and although less than ideal it looked alright after trimming the edge to remove the portion which had not received a white underlay and finally laid down tightly after repeated applications of Champ Decal Set (the molecular acid of decal setting solutions).
At last the goal was in sight. Weathering was applied using Tamiya acrylics: for an extra dusty look, Tamiya flat base was added to the basic buff and airbrushed in layers, using pre-sprays of distilled water and post-brushing with each successive layer to create the randomness and streaky appearance of real dirt. For clumped on mud I applied congealed Tamiya Buff scraped out of the top of the paint jar, which I have found takes on a wonderfully clumpy dried mud look after it dries, and sticks like glue. Pin washes were applied to the seams and recesses with black and chocolate Humbrol enamels thinned with Turpentine. The various small parts and final details were added during the weathering process and their details picked out with Vallejo, Humbrol, Tamiya and Testors paints, with successive weathering layers blending them in. When all the bits and pieces were in place silver enamel, lead pencil and an artists silver pencil were used to add metallic highlights to the tracks, running gear and hull, rubbing them back to a duller appearance with wood stick where they were to shiny. Headlight, taillight and vision block lenses were glossed with Future. Finally the figures were glued in place and the project was done.
   
   
At the end of the day Fighting 48th has created a fantastic conversion kit. Clearly Tim Perry has hit on a brilliant technology for creating resin casting patterns. Beyond being a comprehensive conversion set the kit’s extensive instructions and fantastic parts fit combine for an amazingly easy build. With the growing line of Fighting 48th products there are lots of options to choose from for those who want to model this variant of the M4, and all are highly recommended. The review sample used for this build was provided courtesy of Fighting 48th (http://www.fighting48th.com), and those interested in more information on this product and the other neat follow-on offerings should visit the company’s website.
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